As little as possible, leaving lots of room for souvenirs and goodies. If you can travel with one or two carry-on bags, you avoid headaches and delays at the airports, on buses and as you walk about. The more you intend to travel about on your own, the more portable the bags should be.

Luggage
This is not a fashion statement country. Unless your here to schlep around the regions and camp out, it doesn’t much matter what you carry it in. Locals are experts at stuffing enormous amounts of things into vinyl bags, wrapping them in cloth and wrapping that with butcher paper, tied up in strings. Take the hint from them: your bags will never leave the country in the same shape they entered.

Camping gear and back packs should be as compact and light as possible. Suitcases with wheels are a god-send from the luggage companies, especially when you are hauling them behind you for distances. Be sure the wheels are sturdy and rated at 50-100 lbs., as the baggage monkeys tend to stuff them under steel containers in the cargo hold of airplanes.

A day pack is helpful for outings, and for places to stuff new purchases, maps, notebooks and cameras and film. On buses and crowded streets, shoulder strap athletic bags are good. There are some bags where you can hide the straps, which adds a flair of respectability when necessary.

Clothing
Even on mild winter days, public buildings are not heated, so you need to plan to always dress warmly. Bring thermal underwear and a long wind-proof water resistant coat, hat with ear muffs, scarf and gloves. The winters are mild in the valleys, but very harsh in the mountains, where it often dips to -20 Celsius. Normal temperatures in the valley are 0 to -10 Celsius. Be sure your outer clothing is rated for that kind of cold. It is helpful to dress in layers (T-shirt, long-sleeve shirt, sweater, coat), as you can peel off and put on layers as needed. Foot wear should be thick soled with a good tread, insulated and water-proof. Thick socks are de rigeur.

Spring and Autumn can be chilly in the upper regions (cold in the mountains), with sudden rain or snowfall. Have both a wind-proof coat and a wind-breaker jacket for the changeable weather. You’ll also need a rain coat or pancho, retractable umbrella, and water-resistant shoes. Take a sweater along for chilly days or evenings, and slacks if your walking a lot.

From June to October, it is warm to hot. Short sleeve shirts and light pants or dresses are worn everywhere. In the sunshine, wear a cap or sun hat. At Lake Sevan, you can wear shorts and T-shirts, but elsewhere, more formal dress (to our eyes) is the norm. Protection from the sun is especially important in this high altitude country.

Even in Yerevan, where more and more women are imitating Paris fashion (some with knock-out looks), ostentatious and showy clothing on foreigners is frowned upon, and makes the visitor uncomfortable by all the stares received in the streets. Foreign women particularly draw attention to men by dressing in attention-getting attire. This may be "backwards" or not "PC" in the West, but remember you don’t have the cultural defenses Armenian women do as a first time visitor. If you want to avoid the stares and occasional catcalls, dress accordingly. Slacks are worn by women, but most wear dresses. You will see a lot of jeans and T-shirts with logos worn by younger men and women in Yerevan, but note the starched and ironed creases, and the ultimately refined tastes: Armenians take pride in their dress. The grunge look has no chance in this part of the world.

When I was growing up, we used the terms "School clothes" and "Church clothes" to denote modes of attire. School clothes were casual but respectable slacks, a perma-press shirt, and casual but nice shoes. Church clothes always included a tie, in the colder weather also a suit coat. Armenians rarely go below "school clothes" standard, and in the dog days of summer, they rarely wear suit-coats and ties (except for government ministries and formal occasions--even then the collar will be open and the tie slightly askew). For even the most posh venues, you can get away with clean, neat "school" clothing. Men may want to bring a coat and tie, and women a dress or skirt and blouse for evenings out. Otherwise, keep it simple, perma-press, and neat. If your schlepping around in the regions, dress comfortably but conservatively: villagers do not have the means or need for fancy clothes and bright designs. You will feel more comfortable around them if you dress simply and functionally.

Other Items
Bring along the brand or specialized toiletries you need. It is possible to buy just about everything you need in Yerevan, but the price might be higher than at home, the brands not what you are used to. Tampons and contraceptives are available at most apothecaries, but are more expensive than at home. In the regions, you will need take all your toiletry needs, as they have yet to experience the market explosion Yerevan has been enjoying.

Hotels have toilet paper, but it is either waxy or has a dual use as sand-paper. Public toilets do not have any paper, or else the attendant will dole it out two squares at a time. It is possible to buy softer toilet paper, Kleenex-type tissues at stores and outdoor markets throughout the country. Bring along moistened towelettes, a "starter pack" of tissues and a bar of soap. The hotel soap is made from lye, and can be rough on your skin.

Bring along a good heavy-duty flashlight (the pen lights are convenient if sometimes give too small a beam. The next size up is more practical) for walking in the dark, and a set of batteries. Spare batteries are available throughout the country. Rechargeable flashlights (220V) are both convenient and a great gift to give a local when you leave. If you bring a portable tape or CD player, be sure it can use 220V or bring a converter (with the round plugs) along. If you want to keep abreast of the news at home, take along a short-wave radio.

You can boiled water most places, so a thermos, cup and spoon is handy for mixing hot drinks. This is a welcome bonus for driving on long hauls. Packets of instant coffee, tea bags and instant soup mixes are great when your are in the regions.

A Swiss army knife and bottle opener help with all those bottles of mineral water, and for opening cans of food. Other items to consider are a water bottle, universal converter plus, washing line and a few clothes pins (laundry soap is available in markets and shops and is very cheap), sunglasses, compass and sun screen and lip salve. In the summer, bring along insect repellent and sun screen. It is available in Yerevan, but at 2-3 times the price back home.

If you’re camping, bring an insect repellent coil and mosquito net. The creatures are pesky. Only if you’re camping or schlepping will you need a sleeping bag and towel. Take along the same gear and supplies you would if camping back home. For alpine expeditions, the local guide can supply the required gear, but most climbers feel more comfortable with their own equipment.

Notebooks and pens are handy for making notes and describing impressions. They also make good gifts (see below). Half a dozen passport-sized photos are handy for paper-work (especially if you want to get visas for other countries in the CIS), and cheaper than having them made in Armenia.

Film and Pictures
There are no restrictions on bringing in or taking out film. Try to avoid airport x-rays; which can be deadly on film. Lead pouches help, but hand inspection is the safest method. Have it together to make the process smoother and faster.

In Yerevan there are 50 or so 1 hour Kodak and Fuji shops where you can get your pictures developed and buy new film (handy if you want to share some photos with Armenian hosts before you leave). The quality of the photos is about the same as 1 hour shops back home. The cost for development is slightly more expensive than at home (they charge for both negatives and per picture, about $6 for 36 exposures), as is the film. They normally stock 100, 200 and 400 speed film ($3-5 a roll). If you need a different speed, bring it along. Black and White developing takes 7-10 days.

Gifts
Armenians are profuse with their hospitality, and it is seldom possible to return in kind, as they take it as a point of honor to treat guests well. However, unique gifts and souvenirs are very nice ways of expressing thanks. If you’re invited over to dinner, always buy a bouquet of flowers for the hostess, bring some chocolates and a bottle of cognac along.

Any souvenir from your home is considered a thoughtful remembrance. Small enough to carry and unique gifts are music tapes or CD’s (pop music for the young, classical or jazz for the over 30), stamps and postcards from home, souvenir ashtrays, shot glasses, key-rings and bottle openers. Hand made items are nice return gifts if someone gives you a like item from Armenia.

For young children, crayons, coloring books, comic books and inexpensive watches, simple toys. For women, costume jewelry, fashion magazines and good quality perfume (Armenian women know their perfume--the samplers available in Paris are a good indicator of what type to bring). For men, car magazines, car compasses and small items that dress up the car. Generally, small flags form home, lapel pins and stickers, photographic calendars and pocket calculators (solar powered a bonus) are nice gifts of remembrance.

Food
Soup mixes, coffee and tea bags. Bring some sweetener if you don’t use sugar. Vitamins are also a good idea. You will eat well, but the change of location and time can upset your equilibrium. Vegetarians should know that Armenian food is meat-based (even soups contain meat broth), so bring a supply of dry foods to start with. Nuts and dried fruits are available at the main Shuka’s. When schlepping or camping, stock up on canned and dried food, as you may be a long way from the nearest market.